JBO'C's Historical Reference

On Journeys Between Herat, and Khiva by Goldsmid

Journal of the Royal United Service Institution
VOL. XIX. 1875. No. LXXX.

LECTURE.

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Page 14

it may be well to note what Mr. Taylour Thomson writes with regard to Merv, from a visit paid in 1842. This gentleman was then on his way to Khiva from Tehran, via Mashhad, Sarakhs, and the Oxus. He found the city, known to modern times as Merv Shah Jahan, and, to Persia especially, as one of the four great cities of Khorasan (Herat, Mashhad, and Nishapur being the other three), "an assemblage of " wretched huts, commanded by a small mud fort, in which a Governor " of the Khan of Khiva resides, and defended by a few patereros and " swivel matchlocks." It had nothing to boast of but a small bazaar to supply the Sarik and Salor tribes who frequented it.

Merv by Galen Frysinge
Merv by Galen Frysinger

"Merv-i- Qajar," or Merv of the Qajar (the present reigning dynasty in Persia), evidencing by its name that it is the last built of the four towns of Merv, was roofless ; but its streets, walls of houses, mosques, and baths remained, a silent and gloomy record of the past. The Merv of the Seljukian dynasty was marked by low hillocks and a solitary tomb. Ancient Merv had been utterly effaced. Merv to Khiva. — On leaving Merv, Abbott crossed a dry channel of the Murghab, and proceeded by a well-beaten road, in direction E.N.E. He soon observed to the east the rains of a former Merv, of which a mosque and several forts were prominent features. The space covered by these remains of bygone prosperity appeared some thirty miles in circumference; so that it might well have included more than the city of the Persian kings. Rejoicing to quit a plain which, in his estimation, was "wretched, though much vaunted," and to which the desert was “a paradise in comparison," he mounted a lame horse, and proceeded in a direct route across the latter towards Khiva. Two return caravans, with slaves, were in company with his own party. One halt, probably the first, was at another “Kara Tepe," where was a small” Khail," and a sluice of pure water from one of the canals. The next morning the march was resumed “over a plain” encumbered by sand hills, and sprinkled “with low jungle." The lower lands ho found occasionally cultivated, with old watercourses and remains of habitations, speaking of a more prosperous period; the country, rather a wilderness than a desert, with abundance of dry firewood, and plenty of camel thorn, but no grass. As we are without detail of the marches of this party, Abbott's review of the ordinary day's procedure must be taken to supply the deficiency. He himself rose at midnight, and sitting at a blazing fire (for the supply of dry wood continued), and sipping tea without milk, awaited the loading and departure of the camels. Riding after and overtaking the latter, he alighted for half an hour, to spread his carpet at a new fire. He then mounted a second time, to proceed silently along a track not wide enough for two horsemen abreast, until day dawned upon the travelers, when they pulled up to get thawed and warmed again. By sunrise they had continued the march, and about ten they sought a convenient place for halting, sheltered from the wind, but exposed to the sun. Breakfast and a short sleep enabled them to resume operations, until about four o'clock, when the night's bivouac was to take effect. The cold was at times very severe. Icicles hung from the camel's beards; on one
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