Historical Reference

Herat Rugs and Carpets

Herat Rugs and Carpets

 

Herat rugs by Mary Beach Langton

HERAT

Just across the border of Khorasan, in Afghanistan, is the old Persian city of Herat. Situated as it is in the direct line of travel between Bokhara and Cashmere, as well as between Meshed and the East, we find it the market for fabrics made in Khorasan as well as in and about the city itself. Its four bazaars, under one great dome, are the most famous in this part of the East. The sheep of this district are noted for the fine quality of wool, and the silk is of home growth. In Shah Abbas's time the city became the center of learning and culture. The rugs of that and later times were of the old Herati pattern, in great refinement of color; but since it has become a part of Afghanistan we see a " certain wild grandeur," corresponding to the Afghan character, woven into their work.

Design Even to-day the Herati pattern, the rosette enclosed in elongated serrated leaves or cloud bands and the diamond surrounding a rosette with its eight storks, making an all-over pattern, is universally used. Whenever the palm pattern is made use of the figures are always faced in one direction, differing from the Saraband rugs in this respect; and the influence of Indiais sometimes seen in the elongation of the palm.

The field is usually dark blue or old red, with sometimes a purplish tone, like the effect of haze on distant hills; the center border is green, with ivory, yellow, red, and blue in the figures, all so well blended as to give an effect of repose.

The Herati rugs are closely woven, of fine wool and good dyes. When silk is used, it is in the warp, where it does not show, but gives an unusual fineness to the work. The modern rugs are somewhat heavier than the Khorasan, of silky, soft texture, and tied with the Ghiordes knot. They are a durable rug, of great brilliancy.

Their finish is like the Khorasan Finish and rug. In size they are from five to eight feet by ten to twenty feet, and also in runners from six, seven, to eight feet by twenty feet. Beautiful saddlebags are also made.
How to know oriental rugs, a handbook by Mary Beach Langton, D. Appleton and Company, 1904

Herat Rugs By John Kimberly Mumford

Herat.—The state of facts which has seemed to warrant the classification of the Mosul fabrics with the Caucasian finds exact duplication here, in the case of the carpets named for Herat, the City of a Hundred Gardens, which, from its strategic importance, has become famed world-wide as the " Key of India." Though now outside of the geographical confines of the Persian realm, it bears intimate historical relation to Persia, and its carpets are allied in design and coloring to the Persian family of textiles, rather than to those of the Turkmen districts on the north, or the Mongolian on the east. The fish pattern, which has been referred to as prevailing in Feraghan rugs, is in its purity known among experts as the Herat pattern. It seems tolerably clear that it originated neither in Herat nor in the Feraghan district, but was primarily a gift, in which two at least of the older civilizations contributed each its part. However that may be, the design, as a diaper for the body of the rug, and the accompaniment recognized as the Herat border are preserved in their integrity in the modern Herat fabrics. The Herat border has been utilized, with more or less modification, in half the rug-making sections of the Orient. In many of the finest pieces in the European collections it is used to enclose a central design of the purest Persian, the distinctive Persian character being maintained, as one authority points out, by the employment of dark red for the ground-color of the central field, and a corresponding value of green for the ground of the border, a combination which seems to have enjoyed the highest favor among the Persian masters.

The majority of Herat rugs adhere religiously to the old design, and whatever their dimensions are in every essential point, materials, dyeing and weaving, unsurpassed by any which come out of the East. Aside from the recognized Herat pattern, almost the only other device used is the pear shape, repeated throughout the field after the manner of the Sarabands, save that the Saraband has the hook turned in opposite directions in the alternate rows, while in the Herati it is drawn uniformly. This seems to be employed only in the finest of the modern examples, and the elongated, gracefully curved shape of the patterns gives indication of the close relation which, by reason both of trade and conquest, has for centuries existed between India and the Afghan capital. When used for the field the pattern is often upon a ground of cream yellow or some other light shade, though the usual ground color is blue. In the border which accompanies it, in these instances, the weavers retain the typical Herat forms. Although the fish patterns used in Feraghan and Herati are essentially identical, the latter is woven in the Ghiordes knot, the former in the Senneh.

It is a common belief that the Herat rugs are woven in Khorasan. The ground for this is without doubt the thoroughly Persian character of the fabrics, the knot being the only point of variance. In this connection it is important to know that the Herati do not speak of their country as Afghanistan, but always as Khorasan, a usage dating back to the time when the Persian sway was less circumscribed than it is to-day.

There is a coarse form of Herat carpet which is offered under the name of Aiyin, or Kayin (Qa’en).
Oriental rugs By John Kimberly Mumford 4th Edition Scribner, 1921

Herat Rugs by Garabed T. Pushman

Herat.—Here is a strange case, that a rug bearing the name of Herat, a city of Afghanistan, should be classified under Khorasan; yet, with the exception of the name, Herat rugs have all the characteristics of Khorasan weaves, and there is no doubt that Herat rugs were woven in the province of Khorasan, but evidently disposed of at Herat, because history tells us that Herat, for a long time, was the capital of the empire founded by Tamerlane, largely a commercial city, being the market for the products of many surrounding countries and provinces, the interior of the city being divided by four arched bazaars, meeting in a domed quadrangle in the center of the city; and as the province of Khorasan lies only a few miles west of Herat, undoubtedly certain rug-weaving tribes of Khorasan disposed of their carpets at Herat, from which they derive the name.

It is quite hard to distinguish Herat rugs from Feraghans, as they have almost identically the same floral pattern, with the exception of the main border, which, although representing the waving vine design with rosettes, still is quite differently arranged from the Feraghan border.

Herat rugs are very closely woven; but, on account of the very soft quality of the Khorasan wool, they are rather soft in texture. In color they often have a purplish pink cast, while in Feraghan it is either red or pink. They seldom come in small sizes, or very large squares, usually being oblong in shape, from 5 to 8 x 10 to 20 long.
Art panels from the hand looms of the far Orient: as seen by a native rug weaver, by Garabed T. Pushman, 3rd Edition, R. R. Donnelley & sons company, 1902

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